Ask any dermatologist, beauty editor or skincare enthusiast, and they’ll be sure to tell you that sunscreen is non-negotiable. This is because UV rays from the sun can damage DNA, age skin cells, cause wrinkles and sunburn, and can even lead to cancer. In fact, experts suggest that people use a shot glass worth of sunscreen to cover their full body, and reapply twice or thrice a day. However, with an increase in use of sun protection due to all this reinforcement, health regulators want to know more about what actually goes into them, and whether it could potentially have an effect on hormones or cause cancers in the long run.
Recently, a study published in the Journal of American Medicine (JAMA) showed that UV-blocking chemicals (like oxybenzone, for example) can seep into the bloodstream, despite what was initially thought. Since sunscreen chemicals were popularised so long ago, they didn’t undergo the same kind of safety testing as newer ingredients. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) confirmed the results as well. In the study, 12 men and 12 women were assigned to apply one of four sunscreens according to their directive—four times a day for four days on 75 per cent of their bodies. Blood was collected for those four days and then three days after, and scanned for the presence of avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and ecamsule—all popular chemical sunscreen ingredients.
Why you still need sunscreen in your skincare routine
Skincare experts have been quick to jump in and tell their patients that this does not mean that sunscreen application is unsafe, or should be skipped. “In the preliminary study, high levels of sunscreen were applied to 75 per cent of the body. However, in the real world, consumers do not apply as much sunscreen as they should, nor do they not typically reapply every two hours. So it is unclear whether there is absorption with every day, real world usage. We need more data to understand this issue fully,” says Dr Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
“The findings in this study are nothing new and are also clearly stated as non-conclusive. That said, just because something is absorbed doesn’t mean its unsafe (think about the food you eat!). The American Academy of Dermatology also made a statement that these ingredients have been used for several decades without any reported internal side effects in humans,” confirms Beverly Hills-based dermatologist Dr Sonia Badreshia.
“Currently, we don’t have data showing that use of sunscreen is associated with harmful health effects. Based on what we know today, the benefits of wearing sunscreen to protect skin against skin cancer and premature ageing outweigh the potential risks,” adds Dr Zeichner.
What can you use as a substitute to chemical sunscreens?
If you’re still concerned about chemical sunscreens, physical ones are a great alternative. The former work by absorbing and converting UV rays to a less harmful version, while the latter sit on the surface of the skin and deflect rays off of it. “I highly recommend physical blockers for all skin types, including skin of colour. These contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, and are safe even for pregnant women and children,” says Dr Badreshia. The only caveat with physical sunscreen is the white, ashy cast it can leave, particularly on those with darker skin colour. “For those with a higher Fitzpatrick number (Indian skin is usually between IV and V on the scale), it may leave a white cast. However, newer formulations with micronised zinc should solve that issue,” she explains.
In Forest Essentials’ new Sun Fluid SPF 50, zinc oxide and coconut water work together to block UV rays. “This Ayurvedic sunscreen is essentially zinc oxide, prepared by the fine processing of pure zinc metal with lemon juice, where it transforms into micro particles or a bhasma called yashad bhasma,” says Dr Taruna Yadav, senior Ayurvedic expert. “It creates a physical barrier on the skin, shields the top layer and diffuses the sun’s ultraviolet rays,” she says.
That’s not all. “More research is being done on the sun-protective qualities of flowers and herbs, particularly marigold. This flower, which usually grows in high, hilly areas, may have powerful adaptive sun protection qualities,” she concludes.
Also read:
Find out which sunscreen will work for you based on your zodiac sign
A guide to the best sunscreens for everything you’ll do this summer
This is how much sunscreen you should be using to prevent sun damage
