It was a monumental year for the burger. From the $38 specimen at The Grill in New York City to the restrained $6 grass-fed Fast Burger at Belcampo in downtown Los Angeles, everyone got in on the patty action. This year, it was all about the rise of the classic griddle variety—a thin-ish puck cooked hard and fast on a well patinaed flat top and stacked with only a few ingredients (American cheese and some sort of pickle-y situation are non-negotiable) on a soft, no-nonsense bun (with any luck, a Martin’s Potato Roll). It has officially and (thankfully) led to the demise of the overdressed-and-impossible-to-eat jawbreaker category.
Even though I ate enough burgers this year to make Wimpy jealous, picking this year’s best was as easy as answering that silly non-question question: Do you want fries with that?
Burger of the Year: The Tavern Burger from Little Jack’s Tavern, Charleston, SC
I still recall March in Charleston like it was yesterday. I was there for the Charleston Wine + Food Festival. There were panels and seminars, cooking demos and whiskey-fueled parties, but what I remember most were the six burgers I ate during three visits to our 2017 Top 50 pick Little Jack’s Tavern. Yes, six burgers, three visits, three days.
I can’t fully explain why or how the Tavern burger reaches such gustatory heights, but I do know that simplicity has a lot to do with it. For a mere $8, a juicy four-ounce, 75/25 meat-to-fat ratio patty made from half chuck, half brisket is griddled, topped with a sunchoke relish that mimics the flavor and texture of long-cooked onions, and is then topped with a gooey slice of American cheese and mayo-based “special” sauce. It’s all tucked inside a super-soft sesame bun, which you can pick up with one hand. This is important because in the other hand, you should have one of three things: a gin martini, an ice-cold lager, or fries tossed with fresh garlic.
You will eat your first Tavern burger in four bites, look at your friend, nod in agreement, and order another one. Don’t worry, the waiters are accustomed to this repeat, rapid-fired burger bingeing. After all, the Tavern burger is listed on the menu twice, once in the Little Snacks section and once in the Dessert section. It’s the best burger and the best dessert I had all year.
The Runners Up:
The Loyalist Cheeseburger, Chicago
