Fredrik Robertsson made his head-turning debut in Vogue when writer Christian Allaire posted a story titled “Who Was the Fabulous Mystery Man at Valentino’s Couture Show?” in January. It was illustrated with a photograph by Phil Oh of the smiling, bearded Swede in a shimmering metallic blue dress. Robertsson responded to the article on Instagram, writing, “You do know how to make a boy in a dress feel special.” The exchange continued after he was included in a round-up of the season’s campiest street style looks. “I think my invite got lost in the mail,” joked the fashion lover of the upcoming Met Gala.
Robertsson, who is 33, was born in Stockholm, and raised in Sweden, Norway, and Singapore, where he attended an international school that obliged him to wear a uniform. “I think this shaped me a lot,” he said in a recent correspondence. “I couldn’t really express myself the way I wanted.”
At 15 he moved back to the Swedish capital, where, he says, “People in general dress pretty cool, but are lacking uniqueness.” Robertsson, for his part, abounds in it. His ebullience leant itself naturally to public relations, and after working for someone else, he founded own his firm, which he recently sold after a decade. He’s editor in chief of Boy magazine, and he sits on a philanthropic board that supports LGBTQ activists and organizations globally. “I am a creative director, “ he explains, “but maybe a bit more of a creative dictator because I can now be picky about who I work with and what I do.”
Robertsson, who is eagerly waiting to see how guests will interpret the Met’s “camp” dress code, took time from his jet setting, which included fittings with Tomo Koizumi in Tokyo, to pose in his couture/custom wardrobe. Here, he sheds some of his mystery as he talks about gender, fashion, fun, and, of course, camp.
What is your philosophy of dress?
A lot of people think I dress for attention: I don’t. I just happen to love fashion and have always liked the idea that what I wear changes how people look at and think of me. I don’t feel that I have one style; I create characters with my style. I like to dress how I feel and I like to dress for the occasion. When I am dark and moody, I dress in Rick Owens; if I’m going to a gala, I do gala; at the couture in Paris I go all out. I don’t limit myself, and I love to have fun with fashion.
I love color, I love shape, I love sequins and silks, and you don’t really find this in the men’s section. I’ve never felt feminine, never wanted to look or feel like a woman, [but I do] feel very empowered, sexy, and cool in a skirt or dress. To me, this does not make me a woman or more feminine than a guy in a suit. I have no insecurities, no doubts, I just happen to love and feel good in a silk blouse and ruffled couture skirt. Guys hit on me when I wear women’s clothes so I guess the confidence shines through.
How has your style evolved?
The more secure I have become with my identity and who I am, the more comfortable I am wearing whatever I want and not being ashamed about it. I never want to feel uncomfortable. A lot of people text me on Instagram asking, “How do you dare to dress the way you do?” and calling me brave, but this is something I never considered brave because it doesn’t take any courage to me, it feels natural. There are periods in my life when I just want to blend in, look “normal.” I color my hair natural and just become part of society. And then when I wake up one day feeling so boring and uninspired, I dye my hair blue and put on a ball gown.
When did you start wearing couture?
I think five years back or so. I was invited to Paris by my dear friend Cameron Silver. I had organized his book launch in Sweden and hosted a party for him, and as a thank you he took me to the couture shows because he knows I love fashion. It was, of course, love at first sight. I love couture—it’s wearable art. And discussing ideas with my fashion idols who are creating cool looks for me is truly magical.
What has the reaction of the houses been? Are you their only male client?
I am not sure if I am the only male client, but I am sure that I am one of the few. Most maisons have been super-friendly and open to the idea. I love the creativity and openness of Jean Paul Gaultier. One of my first purchases was something from Viktor & Rolf; Alexis Mabille made me my favorite jacket ever. When Pierpaolo at Valentino sent me a personal note complimenting my style and inviting me to the show, I was so happy. It’s cool when people you respect show appreciation. A few houses have not been so welcome to the idea of me buying a dress from them, but that’s okay, I respect it. Some cultures are not as developed, I guess, and I would not want to give someone my money who does not want me in their designs.
Can you talk about gender and dress?
Absolutely: Gender and the way I dress are two separate things. I do like to provoke and make people think a bit, and gender-bending is a big part of my style, but I have never questioned my gender. I am a man; I’ve always felt like a man. I have a beard, I like sports. I don’t think I’ve ever looked feminine; I think I look masculine—whatever that means. I’ve never done drag—I love drag, but I’m not interested in it myself. However, I love the way a dress looks. I love a cool skirt with a suit. I love the fashion women are offered compared to men. It’s so limiting being a man; when I walk into a department store, it’s the women’s section that speaks to me in ways the men’s doesn’t.
When I met my boyfriend, Johan [Hellstrom], we discussed this because I am also very aware that a man who falls in love with me might not want his boyfriend in a dress, and I get that. The amount of attention I get when I turn up in a ball gown, you know . . . it can be tricky. People always have an opinion and I have been dumped X amount of times because my partner couldn’t handle the way I dress—“What will my friends say when I tell them I am dating that guy that wears dresses?” That’s pretty sad, but still how society thinks.
You’ve said: “The definition of true masculinity is being able to live in your own skin comfortably.” Are you seeing definitions of masculinity changing?
It is changing everywhere. I remember thinking that the gay community would welcome me with open arms when I came out, but straight men appreciate me a lot more. “Masc and fem” and “straight acting” are such fucking idiotic terms on [dating sites]. To me, going to the gym every day, having a six pack, and looking like everyone else is not masculinity, it’s insecurity. People are afraid to go against the norm, to push boundaries. I think people have a hard time putting me in a box is because I am not “feminine acting” (whatever that is), but I wear a dress. People don’t know what to do with that.
.jpg)
What do you want to achieve and express through the way you dress?
You know, I really don’t think about it like that. I just want to wear what I think is fun and cool. I am not doing it to inspire, to draw attention to myself, or create some sort of debate; I just like dressing up. However, when I get messages from young boys who say I give them courage to be who they are, or from mothers saying their sons created outfits inspired by what I wear, I do understand that I am achieving some sort of change. It’s small scale so far since I am not a famous person, but thanks to social media I am able to show people that it is totally fine to be a boy in a dress.
Let’s talk about camp. It’s such an elusive quality. How do you define it?
Camp is basically what I am about: Having fun with fashion and not taking it too seriously. I think camp is gender-bending, creative with a bit of humor, flirting with historical silhouettes, and maybe I would even define it as a bit gay. Most of my closet is camp.
Can you share some of your campiest moments?
Jean Paul Gaultier made me a caftan dress that looks like a tuxedo that I wore with a neon green plissé wig. I looked insane, but oh my, did I have fun! Then there’s when Alexis Mabille create the biggest bow jacket you could think of—it was made of red silk and I had to fly it in its own business class seat to fit in the plane. There have been a lot of moments.
How do you feel about being Vogue’s website’s mystery man?
It was a fun day when that was published. I was a mystery for a few hours until I guess the Valentino team let you know my name. I liked how the article later got longer, describing who I was. I guess now I am not as much of a mystery.
This interview has been edited and condensed.