Back in 2000, "Saddle" derbies were almost non-existent in RTW except one rare and miscelleanous Alden's style made in Horween Color 8 Cordovan Shell.
At John Lobb Paris Bespoke Shop, you could then see and admire an exquisite example in a mix of light brown box-calf and grained hide calf, mounted on a round toe last.
That's when I asked #dimitri_bottier to make one with my specific volumes and lines, using a beautiful middle brown aniline calf and niloticus chestnut brown crocodile.
The extreme chiselled toe last was quite the new thing in 2000. You could admire dimitri’s skills on the shoe trees
This pair of Saddle derbies was the exact inspiration of one of my first RTW styles a year later.
I added the thistle on the sides later, around 2003 on the whole box-calf variation ( I don't like punching holes on crocodile skin). This emblematic style, example of my tastes and history, is still part of my collections in 2020 and won't leave it anytime soon.