Antique silver and gold jewelled armour earrings in a chandelier design with Baroque pearls and crystals. #McQueenSS19 #AlexanderMcQueen
A slashed and ruffled silk créponne radiating poppy print dress with lacing details worn with caged ankle boots. From the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2019 collection. #McQueenSS19 #AlexanderMcQueen
A light wool silk jacket with ivory paint stroke embroidery. Photographed in the Alexander McQueen atelier in Paris. #McQueenMenSS19 #AlexanderMcQueen
A light wool silk jacket with ivory paint stroke embroidery worn with light wool evening trousers. From the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2019 Menswear collection. #McQueenMenSS19 #AlexanderMcQueen
For the Autumn/Winter 2018 womenswear collection, Sarah Burton tailored a pieced together evening coat and jacket with an hourglass waist. Imagining the mannish gesture of shrugging an overcoat on the shoulders of a suit, the process became focused on creating a male version of the shape to be as elegant, smooth-lined, narrow-sharp and nipped-in as the women’s. The finished camel-hair coat and grey mohair suit jacket are constructed as a single garment. The piece features a golden satin back, creating the illusion that its lining is transposed to the outside. The smooth-lined, narrow proportions are a technically difficult construct, tailor-made to capture off-handed ease.
Sarah Burton and the menswear team began by experimenting on a classic Crombie style coat, pinning corseted details into the torso to create a waisted silhouette. The first toiles were made in black pinstripes, but that fabric was dropped in favour of a camel-hair coat over a one-button grey tonic mohair jacket – a throw-back to the Carnaby Street Mod tailoring Lee Alexander McQueen often referenced.
Deconstructing and reconstructing the jacket and coat were created using traditional basting techniques, canvas panels were hand fitted into the chest to enhance and retain the shape. The next step devised a method of cutting away the back of the suit jacket and fixing it to the inside of the coat. Instead of a more typical Alexander McQueen ‘pagoda’ shoulder, a narrow straight shoulder-line and a ‘cigarette’ sleeve-head shoulder roll was constructed as a new coat block.
A laced asymmetrical corseted black silk poplin dress in a dark Ophelia print overlaid with iris, pansies and forget-me-nots. From the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2019 collection. #McQueenSS19 #AlexanderMcQueen
Caged ankle boots with hammered metal studs and toecaps, worn with a buttercup asymmetrical silk knit laced dress. Photographed in the atelier before the Summer/Spring 2019 show. #McQueenSS19 #AlexanderMcQueen
An ivory asymmetrical silk knit dress with laddered ruffle trims and lacing details, worn with an asymmetrical draped belt. Photographed in the atelier before the Spring/Summer 2019 show. #McQueenSS19 #AlexanderMcQueen
A buttercup cotton broderie anglaise corset dress with poet sleeves and balloon skirt, worn with a bombé hip belt. From the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2019 collection. #McQueenSS19 #Alexander McQueen